Our vision for Belle Brummell was to create a couture jacket that was made with the female silhouette in mind, but with the structure and tailoring expertise traditionally seen in men’s suiting. Throughout the 18th and 19th centuries, women’s clothes were designed and made by women, with the knowledge of what complimented their curves and looked most attractive. However this has been lost over the past two hundred years, with modern tailoring often being derived from men’s patterns and profiles.
Two historic British styles formed the basis for our design inspiration. Firstly, the 18th Century gentleman’s frock coat, with movement at the back of the jacket created with distinctive cut and inverted pleat detailing. Secondly, 19th Century ladies’ riding jackets, which were cut to flatter a woman’s natural shape and aid movement when riding.
Credit: Riding Coat 1750-1759 Designer unknown https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O115761/riding-coat-unknown/