Creating your Belle Brummell Jacket

Creating our Belle Brummell Jackets

Each jacket presented in the Belle Brummell Collection has an extensive sewing history.

Our Head Tailor taught and trained on Savile Row. Early in her career she achieved the much-coveted ‘Golden Shears’ award for the best work produced on Savile Row.

Her level of expertise and focus on female tailoring ensures the highest quality for our unique jackets.

Creating structured jackets at this level is an extensive process. Our Creative Director and Head Tailor worked closely over many months to perfect these wearable works of art.

Fabrics and Trims

Our Long Jackets are made from the finest British three-season woollen fabrics available on Savile Row. We combine feminine satin damask, plush velvets and creamy satins, with traditionally masculine fabrics, including mid-weight wool and miniature houndstooth patterns. This gives our jackets their structure and durability, whilst maintaining their feminine style. 

Wool is a responsible choice for our heritage jackets due to its varied natural qualities. It is durable, renewable, breathable, flame-resistant, water repellant, hypoallergenic, requires little cleaning and perfect for the changeable climate.

About Belle Brummell customisation
About Belle Brummell partner showroom

The Jewellery of the Jacket

Passementerie and ornaments are a key part of Belle Brummell’s style vocabulary. These elegant finishing touches add another dimension and make further reference to Georgian and Regency influences.

Architectural bands of embroidery or three-dimensional edging borders on velvet cuffs are applied with meticulous craftsmanship and finished to the highest standard.

Each jacket features exquisite buttons applied by hand. The custom gold-gilt Belle Brummell buttons and sparkling jet black bead buttons of our Lawrence and Reynolds styles are a classic, whilst matching couture silk buttons finish the more formal Gainsborough design.

For a final flourish, detachable silk ornamental drops grace the back of each jacket.

The Hierarchy of Design

Superb design, whether in art, architecture or fashion depends on the Classical principles of hierarchy.

To justify the use of ornament, one wit said...

“Ornament is the fashion architecture of the near view”. 

Gainsborough No.1 Long Jacket in Pale Pink front view

Overall profile

When you see a Belle Brummell Jacket from afar, the feminine profile is instantly recognisable. The distinctly classical outline of the jacket creates a graceful yet subtle hourglass shape.  

The shoulders have a gentle, sleek lift to them created by “a Crown Shoulder”, an historical Savile Row tailoring technique. The skirt of the jacket is always gently curving, never stopping abruptly, to be in harmony with the rest of the flowing curves of the jacket.

Getting closer

As you approach, you will see a wonderful play of different fabric combinations. Whilst all in the same colour palette, you begin to see the graceful lines of the piping that curve over and in towards the waist. The vertical piping not only creates slimming lines but heightens the effect of a trim waist.  

There is a gentle yet enlivening play of light between a finely woven, matt wool against the soft sheen of a silk satin fabric or an interesting contrast in texture between a two-toned woven ‘mini-houndstooth’ wool resting under luxurious velvet collar and cuffs.

Gainsborough No.1 Long Jacket in Pale Pink front detail
Gainsborough No.1 Long Jacket in Pale Pink back detail

The Near View

When you are within touching distance, the exquisite ornaments of trim, buttons and passementerie on both the front and the back of the jackets will come into view to delight the eye.

Intricate geometric silk bands of trim wrap the cuffs of the Gainsborough and Lawrence Jackets, while fluffy bands of colour define the ends of the velvet cuffs in The Reynolds style. Gilt gold Belle Brummell buttons or silk couture buttons offer just the right touch of glamour. The silk ornamental drops, that fall from the back buttons, provide a graceful finish to the piping and draw the eye to the beautiful inverted pleats. 

Thus, the hierarchy of design continues to unfold new visual and tactile joys to the observer and the wearer!

Contact Us

Do not hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions or would like to set up an appointment. We will be in touch within 24 hours or the our business day.